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HIKING THE DORDOGNE VALLEY
(8 or 10 Days)

INDEPENDENT HIKING IN FRANCE

HikerOverlookdev.gif (3028 bytes)The British have long been associated with this fertile green valley, where they fought and died in the Hundred Year's War. They held the South bank of the River Dordogne and built many of the castles and "Bastides", or fortified villages still to be seen. It is a land with "un peu de tout", as the French say, a little of everything; a gently meandering river, lush pastures, wine, walnuts, geese for foie gras and confit ... and the warm southern sun.
The eight-day walk begins at Collonges-La Rouge, an exquisite mediaeval village in warm red sandstone, enclosing a priory church. We follow the GR480, via Curemonte, where Colette once lived, over rolling farmland and along woodland paths, to Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, and a valley of outstanding natural beauty. Climbing out of the valley and over the ridge, we descend to the River Cere, and continue via the massive red castle of Casteinau to the waterfall and "gentilhommieres" of Autoire. From the pretty village of Loubressac, perched on a scarp with splendid views, we can visit the wonderful caves of Padirac, before descending to Carennac, its sun-warmed roofs clustered above the Dordogne. Continuing via the natural circus of Montvalent and the cliffs of Creysse, we reach Martel where Henry, son of Henry II and of Eleanor of Aquitaine, called "Henri Court-Mantel" for the new short cloak which he made fashionable, died of his wounds in the Hundred Year's War. The house is still visible today.
On the longer (10-day) tour you also traverse the Cirque de Montvalent with its great cliffs overhanging the Dordogne between Carennac and Creysse, and visit the historic towns of Creysse and Martel.

8-DAY ITINERARY

Day 1: Arrive at the tiny village of Sarrazac, deep in a green valley on the edge of the Causse de Martel.

Day 2: Sarrazac to Collonges-la-Rouge/Meyssac. Near the half-way point is the picturesque village of Turenne, with its famous castle towering over the surrounding countryside. You reach Collonges during the afternoon at a time when you are unlikely to be the only visitors. The dark red sandstone of which the many fine buildings are made is still a stunning sight. Our usual lodgings are in the countryside equidistant from Collonges and Meyssac, near the tiny settlement of Saillac. On occasion we may use a small hotel in Meyssac, a larger and less touristy village than Collonges and built of the same red sandstone.

Day 3: Collonges-la-Rouge/Meyssac to Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne 26km. Over undulating country to Curemonte, a mediaeval village where the writer Colette once lived. The day ends with a long descent of an ancient cobbled mule-track leading into Beaulieu. Don't miss the abbey church with its magnificent doorway. A footbridge links Beaulieu with the further bank of the Dordogne, where there is a popular lido.

Day 4: Beaulieu to Port de Gagnac, 17km. Great views as you climb out of the Dordogne Valley on the GR 480. From the crest the route makes you descend through splendid mixed woodland (chestnut, oak, conifers) and past a trout farm to the valley of the formerly navigable River Cere. One or two short sections of the days walk are little frequented and may be rather overgrown in summer. The village of Gagnac (1.5km) is worth a visit, particularly if you are lucky enough to find the church open.

Day 5: Port de Gagnac to Loubressac, 20km. A walk through mixed farming country and the one serious wine-growing district on the tour (Glanes). It is a surprise to stumble upon the dramatic red bulk of Castelnau Castle, built on a shoulder of red ironstone, as you come round the spur of the hill and the night's destination can be seen on the ridge on the far side of the valley. The village of Autoire and its 'gentilhommieres' are unforgettable. After a steep ascent past the limestone crags of the Cirque d'Autoire the last hour of the day is spent crossing a typical causse plateau of oak scrub and dry-stone walls.

Day 6: Loubressac to Carennac 10km/14km. The 10km option follows the edge of the scarp past the ruined castle at Taillefer to Carennac. The 14km walk diverts to take in the Gouffre de Padirac; a huge hole in the limestone plateau opens into a most interesting cave system incorporating a 1km trip on an underground river. Around the Gouffre is more typical karst landscape of the Causses. The day ends with a descent to Carennac on the banks of the Dordogne.

Day 7: Carennac to Creysse. 20km. A walk along the heights, with views over the Dordogne river, then close below the limestone cliffs overhanging the tiny village of Gluges, before walking across farmland to the ancient village of Creysse, clustered around a little rocky hill crowned by an ancient twin-aisle church.

Day 8: Departure from Creysse. A taxi ride (15km) to the train station at St Denis-pres-Martel, from where there are regular trains north to Brive, and less frequently south to Toulouse (with change of trains at Carennac). It may be quicker to reach Toulouse via Brive.

10-DAY ITINERARY

Day 1: Arrive Collonges la Rouge.

Day 2: Collonges-la-Rouge/Meyssac to Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne 26km. Over undulating country to Curemonte, a mediaeval village where the writer Colette once lived. The day ends with a long descent of an ancient cobbled mule-track leads into Beaulieu. Don't miss the abbey church with its magnificent doorway. A footbridge links Beaulieu with the further bank of the Dordogne, where there is a popular lido.

Day 3: Beaulieu to Port de Gagnac, 17km. Great views as you climb out of the Dordogne Valley on the GR 480. From the crest the route takes you descend through splendid mixed woodland (chestnut, oak, conifers) and past a trout farm to the valley of the formerly navigable River Cere. One or two short sections of the days walk are little frequented and may be rather overgrown in summer. The village of Gagnac (1.5km) is worth a visit, particularly if you are lucky enough to find the church open.

Day 4: Port de Gagnac to Loubressac, 20km. A walk through mixed farming country and the one serious wine-growing district on the tour (Glanes). It is a surprise to stumble upon the dramatic red bulk of Castelnau Castle, built on a shoulder of red ironstone, as you come round the spur of the hill and the night's destination can be seen on the ridge on the far side of the valley. The village of Autoire and its 'gentilhommieres' are unforgettable. After a steep ascent past the limestone crags of the Cirque d'Autoire the last hour of the day is spent crossing a typical causse plateau of oak scrub and dry-stone walls.

Day 5: Loubressac to Carennac 10km/14km. The 10km option follows the edge of the scarp past the ruined castle at Taillefer to Carennac. The 14km walk diverts to take in the Gouffre de Padirac; a huge hole in the limestone plateau opens into a most interesting cave system incorporating a 1km trip on an underground river. Around the Gouffre is typical karst landscape of the Causses. The day ends with a descent to Carennac on the banks of the Dordogne.

Day 6: Rest day in Carennac. Time to explore this well-preserved mediaeval village, one of the listed 143 most beautiful villages in France. There are various possibilities for walks on both sides of the Dordogne

Day 7: Carennac to Creysse. 20km. A walk along the heights, with views over the Dordogne river, then close below the limestone cliffs overhanging the tiny village of Gluges, before walking across farmland to the ancient village of Creysse, clustered around a little rocky hill crowned by an ancient twin-aisle church.

Day 8: Creysse to Sarrazac 19km. The day starts heading north along the valley of Rau de Cacrey and then up steeply over the Causse to Martel. Wander through the narrow streets and find the old market square in the town where Henry, son of Henry II, died in the Hundred Years' War. From Martel the route continues over the Causse through oak scrub and along rocky paths to Sarrazac.

Day 9: Sarrazac to Collonges la Rouge 19km. Passing through l'Hopital St Jean (site of mediaeval leper hospital) you walk through woods, cross from Lot into Correze, and arrive in the ancient streets of Turenne, whose castle can be seen from afar. Then across pleasant farming country to Collonges-la-Rouge, built in the 16C from most attractive red sandstone and looking impossibly beautiful in the sunshine. Your hotel is some 2km outside the village.

Day 10: Departure after breakfast

Trip includes:

  • 2*-3* family hotels, all rooms with private facilities
  • breakfast & dinner each day
  • luggage transfer from hotel to hotel
  • maps, route descriptions & tourist literature
  • emergency support
  • local VAT

 

Level: moderate

Prices & Departures for 2002

Available April- midOctober 8D/7N or 10D/9N
Daily
Per Person in Double for 8D $885
Per Person in Single for 8D $975
Per Person in Double for 10D $1000
Per Person in   Single for 10D $1114

YOUR ACCOMMODATION:
8D Tour Accommodation description:
Day 1: Sarrazac. This establishment (1* Logis) was formerly a smithy where, three generations ago, the black smith's wife would serve refreshments to waiting customers. Tiny Mme Aussel and her jolly daughter Chantal are as hospitable as their ancestors, the smithy has vanished, and guests are housed in a venerable building nearby.
Night 2: near Collonges la Rouge (2km). Run by a young couple (he is Italian, she is British) who bought an old barn in the middle of the country and converted it into a delightful guest house. The welcome is warm and friendly and we have had very favorable comments concerning the food, especially from vegetarians. If you bring a car, car parking may be available here free of charge during your tour. Please inquire.
Night 3: Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne. A splendid great building (** Logis) in the center of town and part of the old XIIc Abbey. Winding stone stairs and vast stone fireplaces in some bedrooms. The Logis has a notable restaurant opening onto a shady terrace. Good food.Night
4: Port de Gagnac. Old established family-run hotel overlooking the River Cere.
Night 5: Loubressac. A recently modernized hotel (** Logis) in the middle of the very pretty village and opposite the ‘village green.’ The XVc fortified village is situated at a height of 380m on the edge of a scarp and there are splendid views over the valley to the north.
Night 6: Carennac. An elegant family-run hotel (** Logis) with swimming pool in the center of this lovely and historic little village on the banks of the Dordogne. Excellent restaurant with a good local reputation.
Night 7: Creysse. Creysse is a village of babbling brooks and our hotel, a former warehouse, sits astride a mill-stream. Rooms have en-suite facilities. The hotel has its own outdoor swimming pool which is 5 minutes walk away.
10D Tour Accommodation Description:
Nights 1 & 9: A small but comfortable hotel near the center of the pretty village of Meyssac, which is 2km from Collonges-la-Rouge. The hotel has its own swimming pool. Like Collonges, Meyssac has many buildings made of the local deep red sandstone.
Night 2: Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne. A splendid great building (** Logis) linked with the old XIIc Abbey in the center of this pleasant riverside town. There is an ancient spiral stone staircase and vast stone fireplaces in some bedrooms and has a notable restaurant opening onto a shady terrace.
Night 3: Port de Gagnac. Old established family-run hotel overlooking the River Cere. Previous clients have remarked on the quality of the food.
Night 4: Loubressac. A recently modernized hotel (** Logis) in the middle of the very pretty village and opposite the ‘village green.’ The XVc fortified village is situated at a height of 380m on the edge of a scarp and there are splendid views over the valley to the north.
Nights 5 & 6: Carennac. An elegant family-run hotel (** Logis) with swimming pool in the center of this lovely and historic little village on the banks of the Dordogne. Excellent restaurant with a good local reputation.
Night 7: Creysse. Another family run hotel (** Logis) in the center of this delightful little village. A stream runs beneath the hotel and its terrace. There is a swimming pool at the hotel's annex 5 minutes walk away.
Night 8: Sarrazac. This establishment (1* Logis) was formerly a smithy where, three generations ago, the black smith's wife would serve refreshments to waiting customers. Tiny Mme Aussel and her jolly daughter Chantal are as hospitable as their ancestors, the smithy has vanished, and guests are housed in a venerable building nearby. Nowadays people come from far and wide to eat here. 
Night 9: As night 1.

(Subject to change)


 
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